Kigali and Nyamata – The horror

This post is about the Rwandan genocide. It is grim reading in parts and parental discretion is advised. If you don’t want these disturbing images in your head you might want to skip this one.

The church at the small town of Nyamata, 30 kilometres south of Kigali, has pews covered in piles of […]

Lake Kivu – It’s voluminous

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Lake Kivu is a common spot for people to unwind after the gorilla trek and for good reason. The green, hilly lake foreshore is so relaxed and pretty that doing anything strenuous seems pointless. We stayed in a presbyterian guesthouse which was ridiculously cheap with an […]

Kinigi – Land of a thousand hills

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They call Rwanda the land of a thousand hills. There is room in the country for precisely these thousand. It is all hill. Leaving Kigali you immediately climb into a landscape not dissimilar to the Great Dividing Range in Australia, even down to the masses of gum trees […]

Cotonou – Not the worst city in the world

When doing research for these travels I came across a blog describing Cotonou as the worst city they had ever visited. We can think of many worse places (Accra for a start, and Sarah doesn’t have good things to say about Guatamala City). Perhaps our standards had been successfully lowered. I’m sure coming to […]

Rwanda: Mountain Gorillas

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Seeing the gorillas was an amazing experience. You hike up through alpine meadows where the farmers grow a flower that looks like a daisy which they dry and then make into a natural insecticide (pyretheum). It is a lovely temperate temperature and the hilly farmland is as pretty […]

Abomey: Seat of the Dahomey

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Across West Africa there are couples wearing matching outfits, all with colours as bright as bright can be. You can see bolts of cloth for sale all over the place, so once a fabric has been purchased it must be used to tailor outfits for the whole family. […]

Possotome and Lake Aheme

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West African men do an impossibly cool hand shake where they slide their fingers down yours and end by clicking their fingers on your fingertips. Sarah and I are very white and find it impossible to do but just being part of it gives you a relaxed and cool West […]

Ouidah – Who do Voodoo like you do?

This post might distress animal lovers. I’ll italicise sections you might want to skip if a graphic description of animal sacrifice would disturb you.

Photos and videos are here (there are a couple that might disturb animal lovers if you look too closely, and I’m not talking about the snake)

The Voodoo festival at […]

Togoville – Voodoo people

The full set of Togoville photos can be found here

We started the day in Lome at an art gallery put together by a Swiss collector. It is housed in a grand house (not quite a mansion) which had a very tantalising pool in the backyard that was sadly off limits. The art came […]

Kara and Koutammakou: The town made of mud

View more of our photos from Koutammakou and Kara

Getting on the bus north the following morning was a much smoother experience. The bus was like a Sydney commuter bus but with the middle doors roped shut and the alcove near the door used to jam extra bags in. To get on and off […]