Although only 40 kilometres away from Jerusalem, Bethlehem is in another world. Behind the Israeli built wall it is in Palestinian Territories. Crossing over it feels like you’re back in Jordan. Rubbish is strewn in empty lots and the difference in wealth between here and Israel is palpable. Israel has divided the West Bank, of which this is part, into several separate territories that Palestinians have to go through numerous check points to visit. It feels like a divide and conquer tactic that along with the massive wall being built will surely just further drive a wedge between these communities. It’s such an odd thing to do as well because Jerusalem is so mixed already that this artificial divide feels even more out of place.
We took a half day tour to Bethlehem partly to see the Palestinian Territories, although this is the least troubled area, and partly just on the draw of Bethlehem, especially with it being so close to Christmas. We saw the cave where lived the shepherds who follow the star to the stable Jesus was born. It’s hard to vouch for accuracy but it was a perfectly comfortable looking cave with skylight and sleeping area.
The Church of the Nativity is where Jesus is supposed to have been born but this is really a guess. Regardless, people line up here as well to touch the original rock from the cave Jesus was born in. There is a fake manger which gets a fair bit of touching attention as well. The Church has been the beneficiary of a wooden roof donated by the British King Edward IV and byzantine era mosaics on the floor which are revealed through trap doors in the floor that was laid over the top. A couple of Popes have held Christmas mass in the courtyard outside and in honour of their visit a new floor was laid in one of the newer chapels (although the old floor, traces of which remain, looks better).
On, then, to the Church of the Milk Grotto which is a site for all the lactating mothers out there. It’s a nice, light-filled underground church with milky white chalky walls. Tasting the wall is supposed to boost your fertility. Sarah stuck a finger in as directed as sucked down the chalky residue so we’ll see how that goes (hopefully being a believer isn’t some kind of pre-requisite.
Heading back into Israel our tour bus was mounted by armed Israeli soldiers. Our Arab driver claims that they slighted him but ignoring him and telling him to mind his own business when he told them that we were Americans. The exchange was a microcosm of the problems the area faces with power unevenly distributed and prejudice rife.
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